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- Here begins the climb
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- Steep Terraced Hills
Summer 2009
Wachau Terroir
Complete stone ground and loam lie beneath the vineyards of Stein, while adjoining city of Krems is more sandy, producing fruitier, less minerally wines, therefore, it is the ideal region for growing Grüner Veltliner, and Riesling. The vines thrive, allowing the typical characteristics and flavours to explode in the finished product.
Grüner Veltliner is typically minerally, fruity and peppery. It makes up about one third of Austria’s wine grape vines. Riesling has peach, apricot and citrus fruit characteristics.
How I found Stagård
I recently had the chance to stay in the Kremstal/Wachau wine regions. Arriving on a cloudy afternoon, fog looming above the rolling hills, I was struck by the gorgeous landscape. The Donau (Danube River) runs from Vienna through Wachau and onward, with lush vineyards, hills and forests on either side.
The hills and vineyards of Stein were calling me. Thus began, which I had no idea would end up a 4 hour hike, my discovery of Stagård Winery. Walking in flip flops through the old historical town of Stein I noticed a Swedish flag, which I found interesting, but quickly dismissed as I headed up cobble stone street to cobble stone street to steep staircases to vineyards and forest. Camera in hand, which has not left me for my 6 month European journey, I documented the thriving vines and steep vineyards. The very rainy summer season has done wonders for the landscape. I made it to the top of the hill, the late afternoon sun out in full force, valleys, and river below. In the far distance on a thickly forested hill, or more like a small mountain, was a massive Monastery (name?). I thought to myself, could it be anymore fairytale like? The Monastery looked so secluded, it could well have been Rapunzel’s prison.
I made the mistake of taking a different route back down; the inviting paved road came to an abrupt end halfway down the hill! I continued down through a thick forest, where my imagination started to go wild, thinking the small tool sheds hidden under the low ceiling of foliage were actually gypsy houses. Finding myself on the edge of a plunging hill, I decided it was impossible to go further and headed back up, this time through the steep hillside vineyards. This, too, was impossible. I had to keep myself from cursing this gorgeous landscape and wondered how it was possible to harvest grapes here. Back at the very top I went down the way I had came up, earlier. All I could think of was “Water”, and, as I passed some houses, debated knocking on the doors to ask for a water bottle fill, but decided against it. Making my descent, taking deep breaths, I had to re-appreciate my surroundings; after all I was in Europe.
I was lead back to the Swedish flag and entered the Swedish Heurigen. I spoke what Norwegian I knew to ask one of the owners for some water and received a water bottle fill. He and his son were kind to me and gave me some information on their winery. I even had an invitation to a gathering/party at the top of one of the town’s churches that Sunday. (See photos)
I was struck by the kindness of this man, the fact that he didn’t know me and ended up striking up conversation and being invited to a get together with his friends! I wanted to learn more about this winery, so after the meeting on Sunday, I decided to schedule an interview with the owner and his son.
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